Was the timing poor? The New York Fashion Week, which was held from February 10 to 15, struggled to compete with the outside events. A tsunami of fashion news dominated the conversation instead. Star stylist Phoebe Philo officially announced her comeback to business on February 10. A pregnant Rihanna ignited the internet two days later with her Super Bowl performance. Her all-red ensemble, which included clothing from the European labels Alaa, Loewe, and MM6 x Salomon, received a lot of attention. Pharrell Williams was chosen on February 14 by Louis Vuitton to serve as the creative director of menswear, defying expectations. New York Fashion Week, meantime, has debuted its 74 shows and presentations, many of which were pretty captivating.
New York, which had no fear whatsoever, created a weird split between two fundamentally opposing trends. It was all about transparency today. There were muslin gowns in shades of green, ocher, lilac, and bubblegum pink from Coach that showed everything underneath. For an heiress from the Addams family, Rodarte created gowns in the form of nightgowns. Dion Lee wore crop tops made of gauze, and Heron Preston displayed a really seductive jumpsuit. Fur warmed up other collections in other places. Fake fur was everywhere, including in tank tops at Eckhaus Latta, tracksuits at Palomo Spain, and stoles at Altuzarra. Sheepskin could be found everywhere in Khaite, including coats, pants, and even mules.
The recipient of the “Designer of the Year” award in the women’s fashion category at the CFDA Fashion Awards in November 2022, Catherine Holstein is establishing herself as a fixture of New York Fashion Week with her Khaite brand, founded in 2016. At her new Mercer Street boutique, she presented a stylish and highly wearable collection. The models looked chic and powerful in their long fur coats, double-breasted jackets and long sheer skirts that skimmed the floor. It is the right balance between minimalism and eccentricity that justifies her success and the upcoming opening of 10 new stores in the next five years.
